A local beekeeper brought my bees their little nuc box yesterday. We had a wander round the garden talking about the pros and cons of different sites for the hive. As we run a B&B we wanted to make sure it wouldn’t cause any concerns for our guests.
Aerial photo of garden
The end of the garden by the compost heap (A) would be well away from guests but we would need to cut the grass around it. The back garden (A) has no lawn to be cut and no hens but the hive would be visible to guests, some of whom may worry about it. Somewhere we hadn’t considered was the flat rood (C), ideal for ensuring the bees would be flying well above head height but very visible and not very practical when having to carry stuff up and down a ladder! So, we settled on a sheltered spot (D), hidden from view with the hive entrance facing north. Our garden is quite a bit higher that our neighbour’s so the bees wouldn’t cause any nuisance to them. The hive gets some morning and evening sun here and there is no grass needing to be cut.
Beehive in place
Having decided on the position for the hive, we then got our bee suits on, smoker ready (wasn’t needed) and transferred the 5 frames of bees from the nuc box into the new hive. It was fascinating to watch the bees checking things out, doing little flights around the hive. They soon settled. I filled a feeder with sugar syrup and placed it on top of the brood box. All was nice and calm. Our cat Molly had to come and investigate. She got a little too close and was stung so I think she’ll now keep well away.
Will be looking out for bees around the flowers in the garden.
Everything is ready! I’ve made a stand for the hive out of bits timber we had in the shed. A quick coat of paint and all is ready for the bees. It’s been a long wait for bees. There were about 22 of us on the beekeeping course, all of whom want a colony of bees. It’s been an exceptionally bad year for bees with beekeepers having to feed their bees already. However, the wait is over as the local bee inspector is coming tomorrow morning with a nucleus (a small colony) of bees. Not quite sure yet where in the garden to put the hive but I’m sure I’ll have some good advice on what would be best. No honey this year but the colony will grow large enough to survive the winter and produce a good crop next year.
Here is all the kit, with a bit of explanation of what’s what.
A brood frame fitted with wax foundation
Once the boxes (brood box and supers) are assembled, the next step is to assemble the frames. The frames are where the bees make the wax comb. In order to get them to build the comb so it’s easier for the beekeeper to manage, a sheet of wax foundation is fitted into a frame and the bees then add wax to it to build up their cells. Each frame can hold 5 – 6 lbs of honey so the wax foundation is reinforced with thin wire.
This is a very pleasant job to do, with the lovely smell of beeswax. Just hope I can get some bees soon otherwise the wax dries out and the bees don’t like it.
Assembled bee hive
Have assembled the hive. It has one brood box and a shallower super for honey. Just needs a coat of paint now.
We’re lucky to have Wynne Jones beekeeping supplies nearby so I can just pop in after my welsh lesson to pick up what I need. I’ve started with one brood box and a couple of supers. The brood box is where the queen lives and lays her eggs, tended by the worker bees. As the bees increase in number, they will need more space to store honey so you put on an extra box called a super. This is shallower than the brood box so it won’t get too heavy when full of honey.
As you can see, the hive is supplied as a kit. What could be better – you have the fun of lots of nailing and glueing to do! I could happily assemble bee hives all day. Assembly instructions can be downloaded from Thornes who make the hive but I followed the sequence on this video: